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Champagne Brunch
Whether you’re team coupe or team flute, this year’s Champagne Brunch promises to be extra special. We’re doing a horizontal tasting of six same-vintage Champagnes from one biodynamic grower—Benoît Marguet!
An Eben Lillie blog describes Marguet wines: “…There is a subtle creaminess on the palate, framed by precise acidity and complimented by a long, mineral finish. I have wondered how he attained such fantastic richness with the wines and was sure it was a question of batonnage, but I’ve asked Benoît and he doesn’t practice batonnage; just barrel fermentation and long lees aging, which seem to clearly open up the wines and give them density and a very delicate oxidation…”
The domaine, Marguet Père et Fils, dates back to the 19th century and Benoît’s mother’s side of the family, the Bonneraves, began producing estate bottled Champagne in the early 20th century. Since taking over the family domain in 2005, Benoît has been an avid proponent of biodynamics, much to the shock and dismay of his father and others in the region. Often this is the story when a younger generation takes over and proposes these types of changes to the farming and winemaking philosophy, but without fail, the older generation eventually comes around when the biodiversity begins to return to the vineyards, and when the wines start to express levels of complexity and quality that are undeniably improved.
Benoît did not just turn to biodynamics to improve the soil and the wines, however. When you meet him, you quickly get the sense that Benoît believes embracing biodynamics improves his life and the farming, and the wines follow suit.
Benoît Marguet is a true believer in the power of biodynamics to change not only wine, but the vineyard and life, for the better, and is passionate about the relationship between the vignerons, the vines, and their wines. His vineyards are plowed by horse, fermentation is with native yeasts, his wines see little to no sulfur, and his viticulture shows clearly in the finished wines.
At a recent trade event a colleague in the industry turned to Lillie after tasting with Benoît, with a look of wonder and amazement. “Have you tried these wines?” she asked, almost out of breath from excitement. He replied: “Of course! Marguet is the best!” Later he recalls realizing that there are likely many people out there who are unfamiliar with these fantastic Champagnes. Lilley writes: “I am never disappointed with a bottle from Benoît Marguet… I keep finding myself coming back to these wines, and… I’m pretty sure you will too once you try them!”
The wines we’ll taste are from six different Marguet vineyards in six Grand Crus of the Reims and Côte de Blancs regions of Champagne. We’ve pre-tasted these wines and each is delightfully unique – it will be a great experience of grapes and terroir. The Champagnes will be paired with small plates. Chef Jason Viscount always delivers fabulous plates for us and we’ve come to look forward to the food as much as the bubbly!
This event is social, with no formal presentation, so you can relax and slowly c-o-n-t-e-m-p-l-a-t-e the wines and the food pairings.
Contemplation is appropriate for these true biodynamic wines from Domaine Benoît Marguet where the belief is that “the horse is a key element in ma
intaining a natural balance in the vineyards. It allows us to work the soil in a gentle and respectful way, without using heavy machinery that can cause significant damage.”
Horses create a unique link with the elements that make up the terroir. The horse allows direct connection to the chalk, the mineral substrate of the vineyar
d, which is essential to the quality of the grapes and the wine produced. In many civilizations, the horse is a sacred animal, non-predatory and contributing to social and spiritual balance… Using horses to work the soil, promotes growth of endemic flora present in the vines and contributes to the biodiversity of the vineyard.
This maintains a natural ecological balance that is favorable to the growth of the vine and the production of quality grapes.”
Robert Panzer says this about Benoît: “Over the past few years, his wines have only increasingly become personal highlights of what I consider to be some of the most pure, exciting, complex, and delicious bubblies in all of Champagne. After tasting his lineup of 2020 single parcel/single village wines, this theme stands to resonate with any and all who dive in—as every stop in the range was once again plain outstanding.
I continue to be inspired by his sense of conviction in action of creating uber pure, unadulterated Champagnes of vibratory intensity/nuance that speak clear as day of their singular origins, pinnacle examples of “natural wine” purity.
The requisite fanatical attention to detail required to execute such goals is clearly well installed at this point in his career, a mature apogée of what has been a long road of conviction and devotion. True to his skateboard-punk-turned-nature-reverent-vigneron independent personality, he is serenely unaffected by the pressures of “what the world thinks”, unwaveringly true to his own compass.
He eschews the reductive critic number game, is increasingly intolerant of the pushy self interest of businessmen, and is making choices for his life that reflect the kind of relational holism that define his cosmic “world view”… I applaud such integrity and independence, and only continue to appreciate him as a friend and teacher…”
Join us for this informal brunch celebration to see for yourself how wonderfully unique Benoît’s wines are. We hope all of you can join us Sunday, December 6th at NOON Greystone Public House, 2120 Colonial Rd, Harrisburg.
Note that there is a caterer early reservation DEADLINE of Sunday, November 29th!
Make RESERVATIONS on the Shoppe Page of this website.
Members—$175
Patrons—$170
Nonmembers—$195