Merlot: The Velvet Charmer of the Wine World
Merlot’s Many Homes: Exploring the Best Old and New World Growing Regions
Once dismissed as the soft-spoken sibling of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot has reclaimed its place as one of the most expressive and site-sensitive red grape varieties in the world. Its supple texture and plummy elegance belie a grape that’s surprisingly chameleon-like—able to translate soil, climate, and winemaking tradition into dramatically different styles. From the gravely banks of the Gironde to the rolling hills of Chile’s Colchagua Valley, Merlot thrives where terroir and tradition meet.
Old World Icons: Bordeaux and Beyond
Right Bank Bordeaux (France)
No discussion of Merlot’s homeland begins anywhere but Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. Here, Merlot is the dominant grape—often comprising 70–100% of the blend—and thrives in clay and limestone rich soils that retain moisture, tempering heat and encouraging slow, even ripening.
- Pomerol’s blue clay (notably at Château Pétrus) produces wines of profound depth, velvety texture, and age-worthy power.
- Saint-Émilion’s limestone plateau yields Merlot of elegance and freshness, often blended with a dash of Cabernet Franc for aromatic lift.
These terroirs benefit from a temperate maritime climate, where the Gironde estuary moderates temperature extremes, allowing for the long growing season Merlot loves.
Tuscany (Italy)
In the Tuscan Maremma and Bolgheri DOCs, Merlot takes on a Mediterranean accent. Warm days, cool nights, and well-drained alluvial and sandy soils produce ripe, silky wines with black cherry, herbs, and graphite notes. Estates like Masseto and L’Apparita have elevated Italian Merlot to cult status—proof that Old World terroir can produce both tradition and innovation.
New World Excellence: Redefining Merlot’s Character
Napa Valley (California, USA)
Once overshadowed by Cabernet, Merlot in Napa has regained distinction, particularly from Oak Knoll, Carneros, and Coombsville, where cooler microclimates and volcanic or alluvial soils preserve acidity. These wines are plush yet balanced—ripe plum and cocoa framed by fine tannins.
In contrast, Merlot from Howell Mountain or Atlas Peak shows a firmer, more structured profile, shaped by elevation and rocky, nutrient-poor soils.
Washington State (USA)
In the Columbia Valley, and especially Walla Walla and Red Mountain, Merlot thrives under warm, dry conditions moderated by cool nights. The sandy loam and basalt soils, along with significant diurnal shifts, produce wines of ripe fruit concentration balanced by freshness. Top producers like Leonetti Cellar and Northstar demonstrate how Washington’s terroir can combine New World richness with Old World restraint.
Chile (Colchagua & Maipo Valleys)
Chile’s rediscovery of true Merlot—after years of Carmenère confusion—has yielded remarkable results. In Colchagua, granitic and clay soils and a Mediterranean climate with cooling coastal breezes create wines of supple fruit and savory balance. Maipo gives a leaner, more structured expression, reflecting its cooler Andean influence.
Hawke’s Bay (New Zealand)
Hawke’s Bay’s Gimblett Gravels subregion, with its warm, stony soils, offers Merlot of surprising depth and polish. Here, gravel retains heat and encourages early ripening, producing wines of dark berry fruit, tobacco, and refined tannins—a style often likened to a modern Right Bank Bordeaux.
Terroir’s Final Word
Merlot’s strength lies in its adaptability. It is sensitive to site but generous in expression—whether the wine is the silken, mineral-laced power of Pomerol or the sun-kissed plushness of Napa. The best examples reveal how terroir speaks through texture as much as flavor: clay brings plushness, limestone lends tension, gravel adds finesse, and volcanic soils give backbone.
For the adventurous wine lover, tasting Merlot from across the world is a masterclass in geography and geology—and proof that this grape, in the right hands and soils, is anything but simple.
Join us Friday, February 20th, 7 p.m. at the Hilton Harrisburg to enjoy Merlot paired with small plates by Chef Justin. Reservation deadline is Tuesday, February 17th. To make reservations, go to the Shoppe Page of this website.
Members—$135
Patrons—$130
Nonmembers—$155
