Alsace Wines
Alsace is one of the rare wine regions of the world almost exclusively devoted to white wine. More than seven different varietals are grown and with few exceptions are whites made in other parts of France.
The most important grapes are Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, (formerly known as Tokay), Muscat and Pinot Blanc. The lone red grape is Pinot Noir of which only a tiny amount is grown.
Alsace whites are not the placid demure wines you might imagine. The best among them are powerful and bold. They are made according to the philosophy that great wine should be the purest expression of two factors—the grape and the soil. For wines to be truly expressive of the grapes and the ground, winemakers take a hands-off approach.
Indigenous yeasts are used, and fermentation is done in stainless steel or cement casks. Oak is not seen.
The most highly regarded wines are almost always 100 % of the varietal on the label. The natural acidity of the wines is never mollified by malolactic fermentation.
The lively acidity and fruitiness that defines Alsace wines makes them some of the best all-around partners for food. Chef Justin at the Hilton Harrisburg will prepare delicious food to go with these wines.
If Alsace had a national dish, it would be choucroute, a delicious mix of pork, sausage and potatoes braised in sauerkraut and Alsace wine. That should sound familiar to anyone who grew up in central Pennsylvania. Paté is also very popular in Alsace and we’ve suggested that. And of course there are the apple desserts. I for one can’t wait to try the food.
Let’s discuss the major grapes of Alsace. Riesling is Alsace’s most prestigious grape. Alsace Rieslings are palate-coating wines that lean towards gunflint steel and minerals drizzled with peaches and citrus. Tight and austere when young, the wines will begin to open up after 2-3 years in the bottle. With a decade or more they take on a ripe fruity richness as well as a viscosity and flavor often referred to as ‘petrolly’.
Gewürztraminer is one of those grapes that you love it or you hate it. This seems to be true with average quality Gewürztraminer. Great Gewürztraminer is a whole new animal. The first time you taste a really great one you just know.
Great Gewurztraminer doesn’t come from just any place. In fact, you won’t find it anywhere outside of Alsace where Gewürztraminer takes on a range of gripping flavors and a finesse and complexity not seen elsewhere. Here the wines have an enormous body and low acidity with flavors of litchi, vanilla, fruit cocktail syrup, smoke spice and honeysuckle.
In Alsace, Pinot Gris is not Pinot Gris from Oregon or Pinot Grigio from Italy. Both of these are somewhat lighter bodied and more flavor subtle.
In Alsace, Pinot Gris has the depth and richness of White Burgundy. Alsace Pinot Gris is a high impact wine with a full body and bold concentrated flavors of bitter almonds, peach, ginger, vanilla and smoke.
Muscat is thought to be one of the oldest varieties of grapes. Alsace is one of the few places where dry Muscat is made. In contrast think of Italy’s Piedmont where sweet sparkling Moscato d’Asti is common. Dry Muscat on the other hand is redolent of peaches, orange peel, tangerine and musk.
Pinot Blanc is Alsace’s chardonnay—dependable, easy to like, and safe. Top Alsace Pinot Blancs are tasty wines with baked apple flavors and a light and creamy texture. Pinot Blanc is frequently blended with Auxerrois however this may not be on the label.
We will taste younger wines, surveying all the major grapes of Alsace. We also obtained some older wines for you to try. When made by the best producers, three of the most important Alsace whites Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer all age remarkably well. Alsace Rieslings have an amazing ability to become graceful and honeyed the older they get.
Only exceptional grapes can stand up to long term aging; twenty years or more. Riesling is the preeminent white grape in this regard, followed in no particular order by Chardonnay, Semillon, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer.
In general, for a white wine to age, it must have an impeccable balance of fruit and alcohol; and, it helps if the wine has high acidity.
We are excited to present a 1994 Riesling, a 2011 Muscat, and a 2000 Pinot Gris; all from grand cru sites. Finally for the pièce de résistance we will be serving a 1989 Zind Humbrecht Clos St. Urbain SGN Tokay Pinot Gris. This is a rare botrytis-affected sweet wine that will be a once in a lifetime treat for every attendee.
This is a wine lovers’ event not to be missed! We will be at the Hilton Harrisburg Friday March 13th at 7 p.m. See you there! Reservation deadline is Tuesday, March 10th. Please contact the Treasurer for any food allergy concerns.
To make reservations, go to the Shoppe Page of this website.
Members—$140
Patrons—$135
Nonmembers—$160
